When a patient asks me what the most affordable and beneficial treatment is for correcting the signs of skin aging, my answer is simple: “chemical peels.” Then, nine times out of ten, a look of disappointment crosses the patient’s face. Why do chemical peels get such a bad rap? Perhaps the name is a turn-off, implying that harsh, stripping chemicals are applied to the skin. Or maybe the patient hasn’t heard of these treatments and is therefore skeptical. What most people don’t know is that chemical peels are an effective option for anyone looking to reverse the signs of aging.
Chemical peels are used to improve the skin’s appearance by applying a chemical solution to the skin, renewing the damaged outer layers. The new skin is smoother, less wrinkled and more even in color. Certain types of acne, dull skin tone and sun damage as well as the signs of aging can be treated with peels. The use of chemical peels to enhance skin health has withstood the test of time, dating back to the ancient Egyptians’ use of lactic acid in the form of sour milk. Today’s chemical peels include peeling agents such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), salicylic acid, tricloroacetic acid, and Jessner’s solution. AHA peels are also known as fruit acid peels, and glycolic acid is the most popular among them.
Should I see a professional?
Most anti-aging skin care products rely on a handful of acids, but the combinations and strengths are endless. With over-the-counter “designer” peels, the exact strength may be a mystery; but a professional esthetician working under the supervision of a dermatologist can choose from an array of products and strengths. In the medical setting, the precise formula used is tailored to each patient’s skin type.
The use of chemical peels to enhance skin health has withstood the test of time, dating back to the ancient Egyptians’ use of lactic acid in the form of sour milk.
Is one treatment enough?
Deeper peels, used for more severe skin damage, are usually done once. These peels have a long recovery time. Superficial peels, also known as “lunch-time peels,” and light peels can be performed over multiple weekly or monthly sessions to achieve maximal results. Each successive treatment builds on the previous one. This series method is also beneficial if you are nervous about chemical peels. Most people don’t need a deep, aggressive peel to get good results, so start light!
What results can I expect?
Ask your technician about the specific acid (or combination of acids) he or she is using in your peel and how it will benefit your skin. Too many people aren’t sure of what improvements to look for after the first session and become turned off to peels forever. When you’re dealing with a professional esthetician, the variables should be discussed, all of your questions should be answered, and your skin should be looking younger and fresher in no time. Also, don’t forget to discuss your at-home skin care regimen. As with any investment you make in your skin, maintenance matters. Following your esthetician’s advice for daily care will help you see better results in the long run.
Are there any risks?
Temporary or permanent skin discoloration infrequently occurs and is more common among patients with darker skin colors. This risk may also increase if you take birth control pills, have been pregnant or have a family history of skin discoloration (specifically brown areason the face). Persistent redness may occur following a treatment, especially when deeper peels are applied to light skin. There is a small risk of reactivation of fever blisters in those who have had them before. If this happens the patient may experience scarring, though the risk is very low.
Written by Keith W. Schumann, M.D.
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